Sunday 10 September 2017

100-102 - Lombadina (7/7 - 9/7)

One of the places B and I had earmarked for the trip, that was a little 'left of centre' was the small Aboriginal community of Lombadina, north of Broome. My aunty Biddy had previously worked up in the community for 8 years teaching and running the local school. I remember asking, almost pleading with Bid last Christmas was she sure about retirement as B and I were keen to see a part of the world that she, her family and my Mum had all raved so much about.

So when Poss and Pop had decided to meet us in Broome, it was almost as if we HAD to head up the Cape Leveque Rd and visit Bid's old 'stomping ground'. My folks had hired a 4WD (a fortuner or something like that) so that we could convoy up the road. We threw our handheld UHF and Evie and James in the car and off we headed...

We should have told the guys not to hit the channel change button... It was a quiet journey...

Anyhow, off we went...

The road out to Lombo, as it's known to locals so that includes us now we reckon, includes am 80km stretch of dirt road. We had it in pretty benign conditions and was nothing more than dusty and corrugated. I would hate to think what a bit of rain does to it. Either way, the trip up was a bit of a slog at times, with a few people in either too much of a hurry or not enough. Eventually however we got there unscathed albeit a little dustier than we started. 

First impressions of Lombo was that it was far greener than I was expecting! Lots of grass everywhere!

Obviously set up by missionaries originally, I couldn't help but call this joint "Baby Jesus House" and start doing quotes from Talledega Nights with Will Ferrell. Probably inappropriate, but in my head, rather humerous.

On our walk around we found a couple of the local girls shooting some hoops, so we joined in. The girls, who Mum knew, or at least their Mum through Bid, were certainly cautious at first, which was to expected of these loud, confident and dare I say it, very white kids! But they were great and shared the court graciously!

Then it was on to driving up and on to the beach I heard and seen so much about. I wasn't expecting to get a crash course in sand driving to do it, but when in Rome... Here you can see me at the bottom of the dune (B and Poss had decided to walk so could take the shot) contemplating my plan of attack. I had aired down 'a bit' to drive into Lombo, but this might need some more. Meh... to quote Ol' Mate from Waroorra:
"We'll see how we go" 
and off we took...

...and away we went. It was far sandier than I thought. Still, I'm very proud to say that I managed to get to the beach 3 times during our stay without getting bogged. It was a little hairy at times (and we saw others not as successful) but The Rock Truck is an awesome vehicle that did everything we needed.

Here we can see Evie, not wanting me to get the awning out, just using shade already available. She's either sulking, reading or quite possibly both.

And here is the beach we were after. I wonder how many people venture up this way, up to the more famous Cape Leveque and don't even realise they've driven past a place like this... Having said that, we've probably done that a fair share ourselves.
Still, here is Pop and James admiring just one of the most beautiful beaches we've seen, and we had it, for most extents, all to ourselves.

This had to be included here... It's a bed. Like, a REAL bed. We hadn't seen one of these in quite some time. Poss and Pop had graciously shouted us accommodation up this way and I think we were all quite excited to sleep on something that wasn't either on wheels or the ground!

Kicking back watching the sun go down over the Lombo precinct... As the Sharkorilla stubby holder says.... "Nice".

This was a funny little moment that I think Pop spotted first. The broken bowl on the hot water service cast a shadow like a lizard/dinosaur over the wall. It might not seem it now, but it was a funny little moment and the shadow did have our attention until the bowl and sun didn't want to co-operate anymore.

Cheers! Not sure where the boys were....

Ahh.. yes... now this dinner. This was Michelin Star stuff right here. This dinner was Curried Spanish Mackerel and Noodles with the mackerel care of yours truly and the curry sauce care of a certain grandmother who may (or may not) have forgotten some of the things on the 'items to declare list!". Those who know me, know that curry isn't in my top 10 meals.... hell, I'm not sure it'd get a run in the Top 50. But this... this was just about the nicest dinner I've had in years. Maybe it was the Mack. Maybe the company,. Maybe the story about the sauce. Maybe it was the setting and location. Either way, it was champagne dining at it's best. Just no champagne. Wine and beer did just fine.

Next morning it was off to chase some fish at high tide. No luck but I think Pop enjoyed taking back his surf rod and casting it out.

How could you get sick of this view?

After getting back and gearing up to drive up to Cape Leveque for lunch and the afternoon we realised that Poss had dropped her phone somewhere on the beach... Hmm... Not good... Still, B and I have always said to the kids the only thing we'd turn around and go back for are keys, wallets, phones and, maybe, a forgotten kid. So Poss and I jumped in the Rock Truck and headed back to the beach for an optimistic search, with the other heading on to Cape Leveque. 
Poss was confident it would be in either two spots on the beach. Getting there (without getting bogged) we walked over to the first spot and within say 30 seconds we'd found it pretty much where she said it would be!

Lunchtime at Cape Leveque Cafe and the kids splashed out and got some sausage rolls and smoothies...

...whilst the big kids had some very nice toasted sangas. 

Then it was on to the nearby beach which can only be described as Panoramic Shot Heaven. Here are some of the pic of the bunch...




Back at the campground, the kids found some coconuts and were determined to try and crack them. Bless their little cotton socks... They had no chance...




The next night was more about campfire cooking with more fish! We used one of the candles to start the fire, more to show Pop what they were about. A little bit fool hardy as it took quite some time to get enough coals to cook on!

The fish prepped by the ladies along with some roast spuds!! A feast!

Cooking away nicely. We're just out of shot talking and chatting and drinking merrily. This was the life.

See... here we are!

And here was the result. Beautifully cooked cod, that simply fell of the bone and melted in the mouth. Seriously, between this dinner and the Mack last night, we were eating like kings...

And the B busts out little sundae cups (left over from Evie's party) and makes sundaes for the kids, including the other family also staying at Lombo. Was simply brilliant!!

Here was our accommodation for the couple of nights... the 'Donga's'

After packing up, I went over to the kitchen BBQ and cooked bacon and egg rolls for all and sundry, but saved the best bits of crackling for me and my Mum... I know which side of my bread the butter is. (Should note, B hates crackling, so I'm safe with this gesture)

Before leaving it was a quick shot of the 'Whomping Willow" as I called it. Quite an impressive tree indeed.

On the way back, Poss had told us we had to call in to the 'Pearl Church'. More formally known as Sacred Heart Church in Beagle Bay, this church had something very unique about it.

The entire alter, and much of the church interior itself, is adorned and decorated with Mother of Pearl shells. This area of Australia, for those not in the know, is famous for the pearls and pearling industry, and this church had taken that one step further! In one way it was gaudy... in another, quite beautiful. At any rate, it's certainly like no other church I've been too.

Even the window frames had pearl in them...


And with that our trip out to Lombadina was complete.

We returned via the dusty road, this time with the radios working well, and at a pace that was more accommodating to both cars.

We're so lucky to have had the family connection that took us out to Lombo, for without it, I suspect we'd be like the many who simply drive past it. The locals we spoke to spoke so highly of "Miss Biddy" and "Miss Hannah" and I can see why they loved their time out there. It might not be for everyone. Hell, it probably isn't for most.

But there is no denying the beauty of the land and the uniqueness of the lifestyle. It makes me wonder how many spots like these we are driving past on our journey. Probably hundreds, if not thousands. Our land is so vast and great, every sign we drive past indicating a station or community down a track causes me to think

"I wonder what it's like down there?"

If it's anything like Lombo, quite possibly another diamond in the rough.

But, as we are learning to say, that's for next time....

2 comments:

  1. Great account of our venture to Lombo. The photos capture moments so well. Loved it. Dad

    ReplyDelete