155-156 Watarrka NP (Kings Canyon) (30/8 - 31/8)

In what was a bit of a rarity for us, we started our travel to the next destination in the afternoon, after doing the Cultural Centre, Base Walk and Ride in the morning. We figured we wouldn't be getting to Watarrka NP until the following day so why rush it.

We packed up and headed off a little after noon and rolled back down the highway, overnight stop unknown.

We stopped for a pic of the spectacular, but unfortunately unaccessible Mt Connor on the way back. I'm not entirely sure why access to this landmark isn't readily available, as from this faraway, it looks like a pretty cool place to go and visit.

We tried a couple of other free camp spots marked in Wikicamps but found them to be either a) too hard to find (excuse the pun) or a little rocky and dodgey. In the end we found the Lurtija Road Rest Area to our liking and we parked up for the evening.

We had a little company but it wasn't jam packed in. I prefer a few vans or cars around actually as it provides the extra little bit of security and confidence that you aren't completely alone in the world.

B took the kids for a stroll over the dunes along the track. My toe and foot had pulled up quite sore since striding around the rock that morning and so decided that I would "supervise" camp.

This was a strange one. Sam and Evie had picked up seed pods from the trees in the rest area and turned it into a weird sort of game, kind of like air hockey, but without being anything like air hockey. Each trying to knock a central pod off the table and collect pods at the same time. Yep... I had no idea... Still, they loved it. It burnt of energy. It involved laughs. Everyone wins.

Pano's can (almost) make roadside stops seem cool!

So from the overnight stop it was a leisurely few clicks (about 150 of them) into Wartarrka NP and the Kings Canyon Resort, which would be our home for the next few nights.

We had planned our timing like this as it would allow us to catch up on a bit of washing after spending the best part of a week free camping in the red dust. And so it was, the first wash was socks. Pretty much all of them!

The camp ground has a pretty nice area to watch the sunset over the National Park, with a bar included as well! After seeing the prices of a beer though, we figured it was just as nice sitting near the van, with the same view and grog a damn site cheaper!

After the debacle of haircuts at Exmouth with the kids, we had bought a set of clippers and B set to work "shearing the sheep".

The Butchers had rolled into the park that afternoon as expected after spending a few days out in the West Macs and then driving around to Kings Canyon Resort the long way. That's a very big drive by anyone's standards, at around 600km so we shouted them dinner at The Big Green Lizard Pasta Bar and we all caught up on our most recent adventures.

The next day was a "Big Walk" day. We teamed up with the Butchers to tackle the Kings Canyone Rim Walk, one of the more difficult walks to do in the area.

This monument/installation certainly wasn't here the last time I walked around the canyon!

Clocking in at around 6km, the Rim Walk is rated Grade 4, primarily I reckon for the first 300m which takes you from ground level straight up to the top of the rim. At least you know once you've done that bit, all the really hard work is done.

James and Tom taking a rest about halfway up the big climb.

Most of the crew at said halfway point, still smiling. Well except for Evie who we've just told there's more climbing to do!

And just like that you were at the top and the spectacular views began. The reason I used to put Kings Canyon above Uluru and Kata Tjuta came flooding back. Views and rock formations that left you breathless.

And so the pano-shot extravaganza began...

Strangely Sapph and Sam were our pacesetters. Not sure why, but they strode ahead, happy in each others company. They've formed such a cool bond over the trip and it's nice to see them interact the way that they do.

The domes at the Northern side of the Canyon were strangely similar to those we saw at Purnululu, albeit on a slightly smaller scale.

Admiring the first of many vantage points of the canyon. I think this was as close as B was happy to get to the edge.

Us mocking up falling over the edge. Even funnier when you zoom in on the faces. For those worried out there, there was another ledge a foot lower than us behind us that stretched out for a few metres before a big drop. It must have been safe, even B was hamming it up! I'm still trying to work out if Elle is saving Tom, or throwing him off?

No, not a bridge across the canyon... just one to get to another cool lookout...

...where you can take shots like this of the full extent of the canyon. One for the wall methinks...

And thanks to a nice other couple travelling with their kids, we were able to get a full "family" shot of the Whites and the Butchers. They've been such great friends and companions to us on the trip, and given this was where our paths would separate, it was great to share such a wonderful experience with them.

Just wish someone moved my backpack out of the way first!

Unlike my betrothed, I don't have a debilitating fear of heights. And whilst I wasn't exactly doing cartwheels here, this was a pretty cool spot to sit and take in the vast expanse of the canyon.

And from there I took this shot. Slightly further around than the previous, but still capturing that amazing sheer rock face.

Onwards we trekked and the sandstone domes become more prevalent. Here we are looking back across to North side of the canyon after going down the stairs (in the middle, across Kings Creek) and back up the other side. Matt, Sam, Sapph and I hiked down to The Garden of Eden, but it was full of tourists so we hot-stepped it back up to the rest of the group to inform them that we had actually managed to bunny-hop the group (which makes for taking "people-less" shots much easier).

Around to the other side of the wall and I love this shot because it a) shows the sheer wall on the other side you didn't see before and b) the angle of the rock wall on the south side. From what you previously think is straight up, you realise the earth has twisted and sheared monumental pieces of rock. The forces involved are almost on the celestial scale...

Matt, like myself, had no fear of heights. Here he is sticking his head over the edge. Given it's a drop of over 100m straight down, it's understandable the need to exercise caution! Safe to say, this was a "do as I say, not as I do" moment with the kids.

And from there, we continued along the rest of the Rim Walk which highlighted other parts of Watarrka NP and surrounding areas away from the Canyon. Might foot was really giving me grief by now and I was most definitely the anchor to the group. Still we soldiered on and Matt, James, Tom and I chatted at the back about life, love and everything in between. We didn't fall too far behind though, James and I were first back to the car by detouring to the dunnies like the rest!

Back to camp for a shower, freshen up and then around to the pub for a celebratory dinner and to watch the Socceroos on their next leg of World Cup Qualification. This was nice as we'd also watched another leg whilst in Exmouth with the Butchers too.

As is their inclination, the kids "paired off" as they normally do, and set about nailing all the board games the pub had to offer.

This could quite possibly be, the quietest these two ever had been, and ever will be. The tension is palpable. World Series Connect 4 here...

The boys, after making their own rules to Jenga went on to Ludo. Not sure if they knew what was going on, but both seemed to be winning and I reckon both claimed the victory. Which is nice.

Then the Connect 4 battle was taken up by the two "Big Kids" with the same amount of gusto and enthusiasm.

Matt and Elle... You have made our trip all the more richer and rewarding for bringing your family into it. We thank you so very much for being an integral part of it.

And with little fuss, albeit slightly dusty from a couple too many beers, we rolled out of Kings Canyon Resort the next morning.

We had said goodbye to the Butchers before, thinking we "might" see them again, but this was definitely goodbye for the rest of their trip at least. With us heading North back towards Queensland and they heading south, there was no further chance of the two vans meeting.

So it was bittersweet, but we knew friendships had now been forged that couldn't be forgotten. We've shared so many great spots with them along the way, we know for a fact they'll be constantly popping up in our photos as we go through them remembering life on the road!

But it was now time to bid the Centre goodbye. It's taken 20 years to get back here, but I can almost promise it won't take as long for the next visit....

151-154 Uluru & Kata Tjuta (26/8-29/8)

And with that our time in Alice was complete and the next phase of our journey was upon us. It was time to take them to the true "middle" and "heart" of the country.

I'm not even going to pretend to write too much about this section of the trip in the form of a summary or an intro. This will be the most photo heavy blog post so far. And rightly so... The few days we spent free camping out in the desert were some of the best of my life, let alone this trip. And now that we've learnt the campground has since been closed, it makes it even more special knowing the chance may never be upon us again.

So sit back, grab a drink and let me take you through our spectacular time at Uluru and Kata Tjuta.

Ready to roll, leaving Alice after being parked up in Site 001 for so long! I think our trusty pair were happy to get back together and chase each other down the highway for a bit. The road out to The Rock was as I remember it. Pretty flat, interesting at first as you followed the West Macs and then tailed off to scrub as you headed further towards the middle. Still, I loved every minute of the drive.

Stopping for fuel and lunch at Erldunda (like everyone within 200km) I found they had an Emu farm. With so much space around them, I thought it seemed borderline cruel having them cooped up in this pen. Still, I think based on the amount of scraps pushed through from the tourists, they are pretty happily fed  birds.

My lasting memory of Erldunda the first time through will be of the wait for the diesel pump. As you can imagine, fuel is a precious commodity out here, and without a long range tank, you aren't getting out to the Rock towing a van without a stop here. So we were waiting behind this car who had filled up, and we waited. B went to the dunny, and came back. Still no sign of the owner. The queue was growing very very quickly. And with vans swarming that's a long queue. Then out comes a young couple, food and drinks in hand rushing over and giving the "I'm sorry" wave. Hmm... After filling up and going in to pay, I mention them to the bloke behind the counter. And he mentioned he had to run around the shop yelling out "who owns the car out there?" He found them at the bar, munching on their lunch!!! 

Our first spot of the Rock, still a long long way off.

We had ummed and ahhed about free camping at a spot referred to us by our mates The Fry's, informally called Uluru By Sunrise (UBS). It's nothing more than some spare spots of soil and sand out in the dunes, some 15km short of the township of Yulara, which in itself is 25km short of Uluru. Camping in Yulara is very expensive, and from all reports, not worth the coin. However, taking the van off-grid over a dune or two and leaving it there all day whilst we went exploring??? 

Best. Decision. Ever.

Here is the shot of the Rock from crossing the first dune down towards where we parked. The first dune keeps all the 2WD and low clearance 'backpacker' vehicles out the front and provides a great sense of solitude.

From the top of the second dune, which was a bridge too far (or at least to high for this chicken) but it was no more than a 200m walk from our spot. From here we could admire Uluru and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) without the crowds, hassle or noise.

Yes, that's Uluru within shot of The Big Green Lizard. Ok... so it's pushing it a little, but that's it. Can't deny it. :)

Our campsite was 'rustic', or should that be 'dustic' and it was really a case of finding a spot amongst the ash piles, but really we didn't mind. We kitted the van up to go off grid for a reason and this was it! Glamping at it's best!

The surfboard and the Rock. Lot's of beach, not much ocean.

Actually this is a better shot of the van and The Rock. Took whilst out searching for some firewood, the white van practically 'blends' into the surrounding scrub... sort of.

The first night we trundled into Yulara to watch the sunset from one of the nominated view spots. You know, I never quite get the sunset/sunrise thing with the rock... I mean, sure it changes colour a bit, the hues and shades a little different, but really I think it's a tad overated. I just think it's just awesome watching any sunset in the Centre, given the expanse of the sky and the (usual) lack of cloud.

This boy pretty happy to finally see The Rock and be able to tick that page off his "Are We There Yet?" book.

The colours in the sky fascinated me more than the colours on the ground. I'm not sure the photo truly shows it, but there was quite the change from dark sky to light.

Next morning it was up early to take on the base walk. Whilst not expecting soaring temperatures, it's always better to tackle these kind of adventures with as much daylight up your sleeve (lesson learnt from Cape Le Grand!) I think the kids were now fully appreciating the size of The Rock for the first time. And so was I. Like The Macs, it didn't seem to have changed much.

Nice and early, the climb up the rock was closed due to wind. Still, managed to snaffle a reasonable parking spot!

The base walk, at 10.4km was, and still is, our longest walk to date. Not the hardest by any stretch of word, but 10km is, well, 10km. Plenty of water, some snack and even some premade rolls order of the day. We weren't going hungry or unprepared.

I love walking with this kid. Sure, his pace isn't fast. In fact, at times it is frustratingly slow, but he just keeps on going. One foot after another, he just walks on. I often wonder what he thinks of places like this, the rock enormous to me, must be humungous to him.

One of my favourite parts of the walk, the first third where we spent a huge amount of time speculating about what caused the holes and pockets in the Rock. Ancient cheese. Exhausts from alien spacecraft. You name it, we threw it up as an option. My suggestion of wind, water and time was summarily dismissed as codswallop though...

It is, quite frankly, astonishing.

We had two very happy and chatty munchkins on this part of the walk...

...Sam on the other hand was for reasons unknown to B and I, grumpy and sulky. Lagging way behind in a manner so different from our usual pace-setter. So we changed tact and I left James with the girls and told Sam to 'keep up'. I changed into golf stride pace and we put a gap in the others. I challenged him to see if we could make the halfway point ahead of them without them noticing we were ahead, so we could lambast them for taking so long to get there.

"We need a gap mate, but not too much. Driving to a number I think Uncle Steve calls it"

It worked a treat and we made the lunch point where we quickly sat down and made it look like we'd been there waiting for hours...

Us and the Rock. And not much else!

I love this shot, taken at the halfway point. It's not an angle of the rock you often see. Postcards often taking the 'dome' angle seen in the shot previous. Once again we played games as we discussed what animals we could see in the rock formations.

"That's his nose"

"And those stones are snot!"

*sigh*

I wondered what shot B was taking here, and thinking it was rather strange, snapped one of her outstretched. Most normal sized humans I suppose would lean over...

And then I saw this shot when downloading the pics. Flowers literally growing out of Uluru. Another great example of the persistence and determination of life in the desert.

A pano which shows the effects of colours and shades on the Rock.

OK... so we can all agree that this looks like an animal or giant monster trying to eat the trees?

The Wave. Dammit... the board is on the truck in the carpark!

Nearing the end, I was trying to drag Sam along, not dull Evie's obvious enthusiasm to lead and not lose sight of B and James!

And we made it!! Where else to sit but on The Rock Truck at The Rock!

And how to reward an awesome effort! Milkshake!!!

Evie's didn't last long...

James and B loving theirs.

The Yulara community puts on educational talks and session in the common areas for anyone to join in and listen to. Highly informative, the second session took people through the history of the area and some of the natural features, flora, fauna and geological.

Our kids down the front, as usual.

4 species of frogs?!? 

The third session was a display on didgeridoo playing. Once again, front pew required.

Traditionally a male only instrument, the local indigenous people had "waived the rules" for sessions like these in generating interest in culuture and history. Which was good, because when the call came for volunteers, which shy retiring wallflower put her hand up?

B and I nearly fell off our seats though when Sam said he'd have a go infront of the crowd!! And he was pretty damn good!! Even got a small round of applause!

I snuck in a quick go at the end when there were fewer people to laugh at me. Managed to hit a few sounds, but I don't think John Williamson is calling me up as support to Warren H. Williams any time soon.

Back to camp and we breathed a sigh of relief when we crested the dune to see the van still there. We sat down, legs weary and ate one of B's tried and tested spag bol's under a perfect evening sky.

Time to spark up the fire... We had refrained the first night due to wind, but there was no stopping us the second night. Same wind, more persistent children (and father....)

And soon the Swedish Candle had been stoked with 'locally sourced materials' and we sat around telling "Fishy Tales" and stories by firelight. Oh... and a few marshmellows...

The next day we awoke to explore Kata Tjuta, formerly known as The Olgas. I had previously rated these higher than Uluru in my memory bank (sourced by Year 9 camp in 1993) and I was interested to see, after developing a near love affair with the Rock the day before, if this held true. We decided we'd have another crack at a big walk, and set aside the commiment to do the full Valley of The Wind loop. All 7.4km of it over some more undulating terrain than yesterday!

Kata Tjuta and some of her 36 domes... They are actually different in make up than Uluru, but the red rustic colours remain a constant.

As I said, this was no "flat track bully" walk. No, the heart rate would climb on this one as much as James had to here!

And this is how that climb looks from the top!

The walk threw up some amazing colours and scenery, all as beautiful and stunning as I recall. 

And then the view I remember most, from the Karingana Lookout, as you stare down between two domes into the middle of Kata Tjuta itself. Awe-inspiring.

I hope one day the kids will recall these walks. They were so brilliant at them, involved and engaged.

And then on to complete the loop!

Yeah, you can take a mean pano out here too.

After walking with Sam a fair chunk, me and my little mate were back together, laughing and chatting! 

Kata Tjuta was awesome, but I have to say it has now been trumped by Uluru in the memory bank. The connection with the Rock is now far stronger as an adult than before, but I'm not entirely sure why that's the case.

Back to camp, and the Central Australian Flies I'd come to know and hate so well growing up were now starting to develop in numbers. Here we can see Evie resorting to desperate measures to read her book!

On to one of my favourite evenings of the trip. We had met a (elderly) gentlemen parked down the campsite a little further from us the days previous and got chatting. His name was Neville and he was from Wales originally too (they're like a plague these Welshies!!). We struck up a friendly affinity with him and invited him over for roast dinner and a fire. He brought some lovely wine and all in all we had a brilliant evening of story telling and tale swapping.

Ahh... she slays me this one.

Me in my 'happy place'.

Fire = Natures TV. It brings people together. Even in the middle of freakin' nowhere.

The kids had pleaded with us to hire bikes and ride around the rock. So before hitting the road later that day, we got up early and headed out. I was keen to climb the Rock if the oppurtunity presented itself so dropped the others off and said I was walking the base again if it was closed...

...which it was. Still, I was early enough to pretty much have the Rock to myself, that in itself very special. I put my headphones in and set off around the Rock, giving myself a bit of a "Time Trial" heading clockwise. It was going to be refreshing to walk at one of my more natural speeds. 

I didn't take any photos during the walk, concentrating on keeping up a pace and enjoying the moment. There was a pertinent moment when "Raining on The Rock" by John Williamson came on through the headphones. All of a sudden, lyrics I'd heard hundreds of times before became clearer and more relevant than ever.

Meanwhile, heading anti-clockwise were these guys! I think James was a little frustrated not getting his own bike considering he's a more than capable rider, but they were the hire rules. I think he mooched off B's legwork and just got towed along sometimes!

Sam revelling in having a 'big' bike!

And would you believe it, I rounded the turn towards the final stretch of the base walk and I see people climbing it. Now after just completingi 10.4km in 90min, I wasn't about to start what is a very arduous and dangerous climb. So I reluctantly and begrudgingly stayed at the base. Evie however wanted to climb a section and she scooted up the first bit as if she was heading upstairs to get her PJ's.

I won't go in to politics of whether or not you should climb the Rock. I'll leave that for campfires and face to face. I respect all peoples opinions on the matter. And it seems, based on recent news reports, it'll be closed soon anyhow so it seems my chance is gone.

Finally before heading back to the van, we called in at the Cultural Centre. A great facility that details the history of the Rock and it's importance to the indigenous community. Unsurprisingly the room with a TV was the favourite! I reckon these kids would watch paint dry, as long as it's on TV.

And with that came time to leave Uluru-Kata Tjuta. As hinted above, I have found a new found connection with Uluru. Maybe it was amazing campground, maybe the two base walks, or perhaps learning more detail at the Cultural Centre. But there's no denying I love the place far more than when I arrived a few days earlier.

I truly believe that it should be on every Australian's bucket list to get to The Rock and see it up close. It really is the heart of the country.

And is one very very special place.