120-123 Kununurra (26/7 - 29/7)

Following on from El Questro, it was back to 'suburbia' of Kununurra.

This was one place I was interested in going to after talking to B over the years about her time as a backpacker picking and packing bananas up in the area. I had no idea what to expect and wasn't disappointed...  I tell you, I didn't mind it. Not sure why, but it was rough, but approachable. Big enough to have the mod cons, but still not big enough for a set of traffic lights.

We shared a night here or there with the Butchers and the McGuirks, and as a whole really enjoyed our time there.

The highlight was probably making new friends with the Tietzels, a travelling family who had their van next to ours. Naturally their kids, Chloe and Lewen, got on famously with our 3 and the lego mat got a real caning. Of a night Renee joined B and I under our awning for some 'grape juice' or whatever else might have been stashed in the kids cupboards... From there we shared a paddle out of the lake, which involved Sam and I destroying all and sundry in rowing races, despite Renee assuring us at the end, it was "slowest wins..."

A great time, with some great new friends in a pretty good town. Now... for the pictorial walk through. 

One of the places near Kununurra I was really keen to go was the famous Ivanhoe Crossing. I'd seen so many pictures of it, I was keen to take the Rock Truck across. It had previously been closed for years due to structural issues but I had heard it had reopened. I had obviously heard wrong...

Once the kids had read about the big salties that inhabit these waters, I think they were secretly happy too not to be going across. B was not so secret about it... Prancing around like Julie Andrews in the Sound of Music...

One of our tours around took us to a Zebra Stone gallery, which offered amongst other things, mango smoothies and fish feeding. Feeding the catfish in the river was rediculous... There were so many, it was of plague proportions. Big slimey buggars 'crawling' over each other for bread crumbs. Where was a big saltie when you needed one...

The McGuirks were staying in the park down the way from us (perhaps had a little bit too much of our company) and yep still they invited us over for their turn to host 'Sunday Roast'. Except this time it was Chilli Con Carne for a bit of left field. Was awesome though, and Joe lent Sam his rod to see if he could catch tomorrows dinner. He did not.

James kicking back, looking thoroughly grown up.

Evie, also looking thoroughly grown up...

Teresa had said "wait for the bats" and to the minute she predicted, a huge swarm of bats (collective noun for a group of bats anyone) flew overhead and out across the lake. It was quite eerie but also pretty cool.

We took a day trip out to Wyndham further up the point. We had been told not to expect much, which was good. As there wasn't much out there...

The tides in Wyndham are amongst some of the biggest in the world (11 or 12m I think) and the water really rockets through. You (obviously) can't tell in this still picture, but the river is flowing stronger than any I'd ever seen. You would have no hope swimming against it, unless you were one of the big salties of the region...

The jetty did provide an oppurtunity for a different perspective of the main point upon which Wyndham sits. You can see the flow coming off the pier to the right of shot.

The highlight for me was the 5 rivers lookout, which sits upon the peak you can see in the shot above. From this vantage point you can see 5 rivers that converge on this piece of land and flow out to sea. If anyone is wondering they are the King, Pentecost, Durack coming in from the left of shot, Forrest from top right and Ord (through the trees on the right) Rivers. This lookout was brilliant and definitely worth the drive out. I just wish those bloody people with caravans would read the bit about 'road unsuitable for caravans'... I mean how dare they.

On the way back, the kids got a shot with the 'Giant Croc' in town, which also includes a young fella who basically wouldn't get out of the shot, no matter how much B tried and hinted to the parents.

On the way back home we stopped in to 'The Grotto', a natural feature of the area where a waterfall (dry at the moment) has created a incredibly deep waterhole at the base of a gorge. Quite the steep and treacherous walk down, we were only kitted out in thongs so decided that we'd give it a miss and just admire the view from the top.

You can only imaginve what this creek bed I'm standing in would be like in full flood, and the noise and display the water would have crashing over the rocks.

The Rock Truck and Big Green Lizard both got a bit of a wash down and clean in Kunurra. With the Ord River Scheme and Lake Argyle nearby, they aren't short of water around this area.

Needing to stretch our legs, one morning included the quite strenuous walk up Kelly's Knob (insert all the knob jokes here please....). The lookout is located pretty much in town and provided an excellent view across the Ord River valley, and displayed the vast array of crops being grown in the area. It was quite surprising how good a lookout it was.

See? Awesome!

From there we drove, literally, around the corner to Mirima National Park, which is affectionately known as the 'Mini Bungle Bungles. A brilliant little park with some great informative boardwalks throughout.

It's not hard to see where the nickname came from. The rocks and domes are very reminiscent of the Purnululu beehives.

For those following B's Facebook updates, you'll know the answer to this, but to me this shot is why nature is so brilliant. Within this tree there is an owl sitting there, minding his own business, almost complete camoflauged. Can you see it? You'll need to enlarge the pic (by clicking on it) to stand any chance. Sam actually spotted this himself after we'd all walked past once without even a second glance.

Suited up for paddle out on the Lily Creek Lagoon next to the caravan park. Yellow is quite fetching, don't you think?

Evie teamed up with B, for a girls canoe...

...whilst the boys teamed up for a "super awesome fast boys canoe". This was before James decided he didn't like canoes at all and made us turn around and drop him off. He stayed happily on the shore where we left him, laughing at our races and efforts to look like a speed boat.

The HMAS Teitzel... a formidable ship. Unparalleled enthusiasm teamed with an ability to change seat locations without falling in!!

We were extremely excited to hear that Kununurra still had a drive in as well, after the success of a night out in Tom Price. So we made sure we stayed around for it and enjoyed an evening of Despicable Me 3. 

Stepping it up a notch with this one, hotdogs in a flask (just like the footy)! And we jagged a front row seat so could snaffle a park bench too!

And with that our time was done in Kununurra. Here's a 'family' shot of the Whites and the Teitzels. It was amazing how well you can hit it off with a group of people in such a short time. Maybe it's the 'travelling' bit in common, maybe it's right place and right time, maybe it's Mabo, maybe it's the vibe. Either way, great to have another group of friends to share this little bit of our Adventure with.

And so the trek through the Kimberley continues. Thoroughly enjoying ourselves, we were to venture far. Literally 'around the corner' some 70 odd kays to Lake Argyle.

115-118 El Questro (21/7-25/7)

After an overnight stop in Kununurra to stock up and refuel, it was out to El Questro a Station come Resort located at the Eastern end of the Gibb River Rd. This meant we officially went on the GRR! Albeit a short, tarmac section!! 

Our stay at El Questro was a great one. As seemed to be the custom, it included visits, dinners and general hanging outs with both the McGuirks (who we didn't know were going to stay there) and the Butchers (who we thought might head out at some stage). It was definitely like we had a small travelling posse of the three vans through this part of the world. But it was brilliant to share such a place.

El Questro itself wasn't what I expected it to be or look like. I was expecting something a little rougher around the edges. Something a little less refined. But this was place was definitely resort first, roughing it and camping it second. But don't get me wrong, having some of the modern conveniences so close to the van, but so far out in the middle of nowhere was very handy. The staff were brilliant, knowledgable and efficient. No mistakes, no issues and pretty much always with a smile. The facilities were well kept and modern, clean and all they needed to be. I did however learn that I needed to have my shower a little earlier in the evening if I wanted it to include hot water...

Overall, it remains one of my favourite spots on the trip. Some beautiful bush walking settings, some fun river crossings to learn new driving skills, and some new friends in Robert and Sheryl (who we've since met in Karumba in Qld!). I was also stoked that Joe also managed to help me fix the ensuite door as well as adjust the draw slide in the rear of the car such that they both now work perfectly. Which reminds me... I need to review my score on the draw slide. It's been bloody brilliant since...

El Questro will remain a destination for us I think any time we venture up this part of the world.

So if you would, please indulge me as I take us through a bit of a photo 'walkthrough' of our time in 'ELQ'...

Our site at ELQ. At first I was a little concerned about the slope on it (doesn't show it) as to level the van, the hitch ended up around 6 inches off the ground! But in the end, it was a brilliant site, shady and a reasonable size as well.

Evie and Sam checking out the resorts' "pool"... Hmm.. they seemed apprehensive about what might be in there... We were assured it was fine...

...and it came with it's own built in rapids and splash park!

And the green light was given and in the kids and B plunged. Me? I was enjoying some quiet time back at the van...

...with Joe after a 'long days work' fixing a couple of screws and making things work again.

During our stay at ELQ, Evie took a fondness to the resident artist, Coralee, in particular, Boab Trees. I must admit Coralee's art was brilliant and eye catching, and had we a wall big enough (or a wall at all...) and a wallet deep enough I would suspect a piece of hers might have ended up in our posession.

Each night at the bar live music was offered. Here we're have a tipple with the McGuirks before they rolled out the next day. 

Unfortunately James had decided this would be the place he'd feel a bit lethargic and worn out. My fault as I'd recently mentioned how cool it was that none of us had been that crook any time on the trip. He wasn't too bad, just out of petrol tickets, which wasn't good when your plans include a few big days of bush walking!

As a result, over the next few days we split up as a group to let James recoup. On the first day I took the big kids on a walk through Amalia Gorge and Zebedee Springs. Not sure why the selfie inverts writing....

The track into Amalia Gorge wasn't particularly well signed and as it was along a rocky river bed, was quite difficult to make out. Still, we managed OK. It was actually quite nice hanging out with this two as a small unit. Not a dynamic or group make up that happens very often for adventures like this.

Evie had been sent the task by someone back home to find some paper wasp nests. This walk proved to have ample supply!

Even found one on the ground!

Joe had mentioned the day before that going further down the track than the waterhole wasn't worth the effort and risk it required. After seeing the waterhole look like this, we were pretty happy to call this the 'far point' of the walk.

Sam was thinking about a swim and I mentioned to him "let's go around over there and enter there on the smooth rock mate where it's easier". Which is where eagle-eye Sam spotted...

...this pretty good sized fresh water croc! No signs or warnings from staff of crocs on this walk, it took us by surprise. It was also enough for Sam to decide not to swim, despite the fact he knew the reptile was largely harmless. Smart boy.

I consider this waterhole Sam's spot. He sat there looking at the croc and the water for quite some time. Not sure what he was thinking, but Evie and I had our own conversation and let him have his time before we headed back.

Across to Zebedee Hot Springs, a naturally fed pool where the water seeps from the ground at a constant 32 degrees. It was like sitting a huge natural warm bath. It was a little crowded as the close the springs from noon-ish to allow the tour groups and those who'd paid big coin to stay their own 'time'. And here I was thinking it was to protect the beauty and natural environment of the place! Still, it was pretty cool. Or warm, if you know what I mean.

ELQ has it's own helipad with choppers flying in and out throughout the day. Not sure what was going on at this time, as 5 decided to land all at the same time!

In the afternoon, B, wanting to get some steps into the legs, took the kids up "Telstra Hill" behind the campground, a relatively short and uninspiring walk according to her. Having said that, she still managed to nab this shot which I think was a ripper and really shows of the surrounding landscape well.

James was suffering a little bit of cabin fever (which is easy to do when you live in a caravan) and I suggested we take a short drive down to the Chamberlain River towards the other end of of ELQ. This was 'salty' territory and we were very cautious about where we went!

The Chamberlain River was expansive, far more so than I was expecting.

If  you enlarge the picture, you can just make out The Homestead, the luxury accommodation offered at ELQ. I heard something like $3000 per night or something absurd like that. I'll take The Big Green Lizard thanks and pocket the change...

James trying to smile. Not sure it was the sickness or possibility of a huge croc behind him, but he didn't look comfortable!

But we did find this road and we just had to have a go. James suggested "super 4WD mode Dad", and up we went, no troubles at all!

On the way back we met these two big birds, which I believe are cranes of some sort. Not too quick at getting off the road, they certainly cast a shadow once the took to the skies!

The next day it was my turn to hang out with James whilst the others took on a bigger walk. James and I dropped them off at Moonshine Gorge, which involved a big water crossing and quite a bit of 4WDing to get there before heading back to camp.

I can't talk too much about the walk, as well, obviously I wasn't there, but from all accounts, it was pretty cool and included more amazing countryside like this...

Meanwhile, James and I did a bit of schoolwork and the VERY important task of putting new music onto the cars USB. We were getting a little sick of the same songs over and over...

The others having a dip in a water hole...

...whilst James and I rewarded all our hard work with some of the shops finest cold treats...

Which obviously did the trick as the following day James was full of beans and back on deck! So off we went for a walk down El Questro Gorge as 5 again!!

James and I, running rear guard as usual. We were watching him carefully, making sure he didn't overdo it and then possibly wipe himself out for an entire week or so!

But nope... our caboose was back and firing. Just kept on trucking!

And being small has its advantages at times!

After a few kays, we reached the "Halfway Pool" where the decision needs to be made as to whether you are hardcore or not! Looking at the water crossing and the desire to take Mum to Zebedee Springs before it closed, we piked it and decided for a quick dip (for Sam) and headed back.

The El Questro Gorge Walk is a ripper though and probably the pick of the ones I did. It's in the shade most of the day and for intents and purposes, is fairly easy for the sure footed.

So back to Zebedee Springs to show B, who like them, but wasn't overly enamoured. The term "like a warm bath" was used. Still, it's a pretty unique place!

We found this brilliant example of a Boab Tree near the Station at Stockman's Waterhole. The unique thing about this one was that it still had it's leaves on, which very few of the others did.

And to show you the scale of the tree, The Rock Truck was happy to sit in front like a right on poser to get the shot...

At Stockman's, the kids (and secretly me) loved watching the fish nearby dart around looking for food. There was even a few turtles spotted. We were mindful of the big reptiles as well, but we were pretty sure there were none in these waters.

Nice place to grab a pano too...

Managed to take a vid of the river crossing out of El Questro. A lot of people talk about how it limits the vehicles getting in there, but really it's pretty tame. I wouldn't tow anything in there without a decent rig but most vehicle with some clearance will get in there no worries. Provided it hasn't been raining...

Eventually though, we had to leave. ELQ was such a great spot. Normally I wouldn't go for something that had become so corporatised but it was so professionally run, clean and approachable, they had somehow found the balance. I would have no hesitation recommending people head there if they are up this way. There is so much to do for such a wide array of budgets you could easily get rid of a couple of days.

On the way back to Kununurra, we called in to Emma Gorge, which is still part of the ELQ Station bounds. If you are not sure you can get out to the Station, make sure you at least put aside some time to head here. I'm probably running out of superaltives and adjectives but this place is so special it probably deserves it's on word... "Emmagorgeous"...

After reasonably tough trek in, including some rather selfish walkers who wouldn't let the more spritely mountain goats through, we made it to the end and were rewarded with an amazing waterfall!

It was up there with the best falls we've seen. And dammit... was this pool cool. I managed to have a dip, and find the small area to the right where warm spring water entered the pool, but it wasn't enough to keep me in there...

But the walk was enough to wear these crazy kids out! :)

To get to the falls you have to pass the Turquoise Pool, but we had deliberately decided to leave this for the way back. A smart decision given it was far warmer than the fall pools. Sam and I spent quite some time in here swimming around and jumping in off the rocks. One of the coolest pools ever.

El Questro was unanimously loved by all Marshians and everyone kind of wished we could stay longer. But the lure of the road and the next pitstop was calling.