Day 82-85 - Karijini NP (18/6 - 21/6)

OK... before we get to the good stuff on this post, I better put in a intro, a prefix if you like.

To get to Karijini Nation Park (from hereon in shortened to Karijini) we had made our way from Cheela to a mining town called Tom Price. And whilst this might be unremarkable to most B and I knew we had to at least detour here as our good mate, and my old housemate's name is... Tom Price. I remember eons ago when Tom stayed with B and Steve and I for a little while in Oz, we were joking about how there was a town named in his honour. But we chucked it out in the middle of Bunty-yoop-yoop so we wouldn't hear too much about it. And here we were, staying overnight in that very town.

I'll say, Tom Price (the town) isn't much to write home about. A necessary stock up point for anyone heading to Karijini from our direction. Built solely around the neighbouring mine it was serviceable, clean and without too many issues. And whilst we weren't planning to stay the night, once we got wind of a drive-in movie being shown, well that was it. We were pulling up stumps for the night.

The Caravan Park was pretty good, if a little expensive in my opinion. But it's the only place in town so hey, milk the monopoly.

No, not a New Age convention, we just thought it was unique to be surrounded after not seeing too many on the road for quite some time. A Big Red and a Manta to keep the Gecko company.

I often wonder if keeping our kids in a big box for 9 months is having side effects...

Yep... that looks comfy Evie.

The drive-in was really cool and quite the novelty. It was a shame that the movie (Boss Baby) was the same movie the kids had seen in the cinema in Perth, but no one really cared that much. Surprisingly entertaining, I wouldn't be rushing out to by the DVD and matching T-shirt. Very much a "oh... this is on. Might watch it" kind of movie.

For those wanting a seat, better get in early... How's the backdrop though?

The Rock Truck just sliding into the 4WD look of a mining town as if it always belonged here. If you ignore the surfboard....

But enough of Tom Price and his town....

Our overnight stop enabled us to reach Karijini nice and early and without too many issues. It's a first come first serve style campground at "Dales Campground" in the Eastern end of the park. (Mental note: find out who Dale is...). And we're glad we did as, despite the campground being absolutely MA-HOOSIVE, it was pretty chockers. In fact on one of the nights we were there, I believe the "Sorry, we're full" sign was put out. Good luck if you arrived to find that as the nearest spot (not including some... ahem... slightly illegal camping) would be quite a few clicks down a dirt road.

Our commitment to getting on the road however found us a spot and we made our way through the windy roads of the campground to the back corner where we found our spot. Well, I use the term 'spot' loosely. It might be more appropriate to say our minature cattle station. I reckon at a push, we could have run a few head of cattle on it without too much issue. At the very least, we were able to drive in, unhook and drive off. No reversing, no caravan tetris. It was in fact, too big. B and I spent quite a while debating about the best way to orientate the van to ensure sun/shade/dust/access/light considerations were all taken into account.

Not to be confused with a "drive through" site, this was simply a "drive in" site.

Not too much lawn around here. Plenty of grass, just not the type you'd want to walk on...

We had heard Dales Campground was the size of a small African nation, and I don't think it was far off.

So... what of our time there? We spent 4 nights there where the activities ranges from bushwalking to rock hopping to swimming to astronomy lessons and socialising. All in the shadow of what can only be described as a phenomenal natural backdrop. Over our time there I was reminded of different parts of Australia we've seen all rolled into one, and then jazzed up with a further injection of colour and natural beauty.

So join me as I reminisce on some of the brilliant parts and favourite moments of our time at Karijini.

Fern Pool

Twice we visited Fern Pool, a little gem located within (generous) walking distance of our site where 

water cascaded over a short but wide waterfall into the pool where you could swim. Apparently there used to be quite the deck and lounging area adjacent to the pool, but fire had ripped through the gorge and had burnt it all to smithereens. The Parks department had done a "reasonable" job cleaning up the area but a sign still warned of timber decking screws that may be prevalent. Evie found three I believe in our two visits... I could have lent them my pristine metal detector... Still, a replacement deck was constructed to at least allow 'graceful' entry into and exit from the pool.

On our first walk down the steps towards Fortescue Falls, which is being fed by the water from Fern Pool.

B and the kids being dwarfed by the falls and the surrounding rock.

This tree was still standing (and growing) on the path into Fern Pool. The fire had decimated it, but at least you could marvel at the structure of such a beast of a tree. Normally I suspect this would have been hidden amongst the undergrowth.

At our first visit only B entered the water, and judging by the sudden look of shock on her face, the rest of us decided that it was far too cold. How little did we know...

B swimming in the beautiful Fern Pool

Our second time was at the tail end of the Gorge Walk a few days later. After a nice long walk and a dip in the frigid Circular Pool previously, I spent most time in Fern Pool, practically marvelling at its 'warmth' and 'cosiness'. Joe McGuirk and I swam all the way over to the falls, where upon rest on the rock, something bit my toe, and I decided the welcome mat wasn't extended that far....

A beautiful spot, reasonably easily accessible, certainly in comparison to some of the other gorges and pools in the area. I would say a dip in Fern Pool is almost compulsory for anyone staying at Dales.

Karijini Info Centre

A pretty cool looking building, most of which is made out of rolled steel and metal work. And whilst the staff behind the counter weren't overly warm and welcoming, we did arrive the best part of 20min before close so I can imagine their frustration in a family of tourists coming in swanning around. It is their job though...

The Centre itself offers showers (at a price) something we didn't take up during our stay but from all accounts were reasonable quality. On display however is a brilliant and informative presentation of the local aboriginal heritage of the area, the people who belong to the land and how the used to live on it. Also discussed is how the unique land formations came to be over millions of years and the detailed ecosystem they house.

It was nice to see a Information Centre that was more about Information rather than just peddling touristy nick-nacks, souveniers and merchandise. Although, the certainly had that there...

Sam getting his "info" on...

Hand Rail Pool

We had managed to find The Butchers in another of Dales 'loops' and hooked up for a drink and some nibbles. From there we arranged to drive the 40km of dirt road across to the other end of the park to walk a couple of the really tricky gorges.

The drive across was quite the ordeal as we had timed our run such that we were eating the dust of 4 other cars heading the same direction. The road itself was quite good, wide and only with mild corrugations. On the way back solo, being able to do the speed I wanted, we had little drama at all sitting on 60-70km/h. The way over however, the dust made you blind and the 40km/h speed was painful and I heard the truck whinge over every bump. In the end I simply backed right off until I could see clearly again and travelled in spurts of speed until I once again caught the train and repeated the action.

However, reward comes to the persistant, committed and tolerant.

We arrived and went through the Holy Trinity of Walking... Hats... Cream... Water... Naturally B and I have a few more, but the kids have these as a minimum. This walk also threw in a conundrum as we knew that there'd be a bit of water around... So what shoes were suitable. In the end, sandals and rock/water shoes were chosen, except for B who was happy to trudge in her walking boots.

So the Butchers and The Whites headed off to find the Hand Rail Pool.

Now THIS was a walk and a half. Not because it was long, but the challenges and obstacles it brought. With the other Matt in the front and myself 'Tail-end Charlie', B and Elle interspersed themselves with the kids to ensure that there was always an adult within striking distance. 

The walk took us through some disgustingly beautiful terrain, over rocks, through pools and down slippery chasms all in search of the elusive hand rail... At times the water was waist deep (for those of us carry people across) and at others it was rushing past ankles trying to sweep us downstream. If we weren't so busy trying not to go 'A over T' or watch a kid, there might be even more photos!

If I'm honest, I'm so glad that the WA Government hasn't given in to some wowsers and the pressures that I'm sure come when someone gets seriously hurt down there. To shut this kind of adventure off would cheat so many people of such an enriching experience. And for us, the thousands of giggles, "wow this is cool" and "more water, yippee" made the at times worrysome trek all the worth while.

There's always time to take pics. At least Matt B is paying attention to helping the kids navigate the path ahead...

Yep... not your average bush walk.

The path came through here. I use the term 'path' very loosely.

A welcome bit of dry ground...

What we thought at first might have been the pool, but there was no 'handrail' so on we pressed...

Until we spied this...

And down the handrail we had to go. What an adventure!

And in the end, we got there with little fuss or accident. And after climbing down the handrail into the pool, we were met with a fantastic audotorium being constantly filled by the water that we had been previously traversing. Only the brave (B) and the unfortunate (Evie, after slipping) went in for a dip. How the water itself wasn't frozen I've no idea because I'm sure it was sub-zero. Certainly felt it to me and I was expecting penguins to pop up at one stage.

B swimming in the Hand Rail Pool.

Still, it was an amazing spot, and we snacked and watched the kids play and paddle where possible, and marvelled and shook our heads at others bravery to get in, swim, dive and jump around...

An awesome spot that took a cool adventure and plenty of Indiana Jones impersonations to get there. If this is the kind of experience we were in for at Karijini, then we were a chance to never leave...

We left the Butchers back in the carpark as they had to return to hook up and move on to their next destination. After tucking into the usual sanga's we asked the kids if they were up for a REAL adventure... expecting a few whinges and whines... they couldn't have refilled the drink bottles and got on their way quick enough....

Hancocks Gorge to Kermit Pool

The Butchers had worded us up about this one, basically saying "if you do one walk, do this one..."

If we thought the Hand Rail Pool walk was cool, this one was proper all encompassing Spider Monkey goodness.

"OK... it says something about Extreme Caution Dad"

Down some steep stairs, and we're away. This gorge, like the one in the morning was narrow and wouldn't see a heap of direct sunlight. But this walk was something even more... Tougher, narrower and requiring a bit more concentration on everyone's behalf, we once again made it through unscathed and without issue. Sure there were moments where I was wondering "what the hell are we doing" but everyone coming back the other way kept reassuring us "it was worth it".

And it was.

Nope. No filter. No photoshop. This was how part of this walk looked.

B leading the way, trying to find the safe way through. Not as simple as it looks as often the channel (stream) dropped away quite suddenly and given the temperature of the water would be quite the experience if you went 'in'.

Looking back along the same view, you can see where the deep water ended and the shallow ledge of slippery rock began. Just another challenge.

From there, the water cascaded over this beautiful waterfall and passed through...

...into this amazing natural amphitheatre. Breathtaking. The trail however extended beyond this, just beyond the kids heads...

As we sat in the "Amphitheatre" I was wondering how much better could it get. But from there the trail narrowed further and we had traverse the "Spider Walk"... A more aptly named chasm you couldn't get. And oh to be a flexible young 'spider' like our three. Sam and Evie practically walked through around head height at times as the adults tried to negotiate the slimey chasm floor. It was freakin' awesome fun.

It isn't hard to see why they call this section the Spider Walk...

Looking back the other way, it is most definitely a one lane road... Some were more graceful than others I might add...

And then, at the end we found Kermit's Pool, and yes, it was worth it. An amazing little green pool of water that ponded in this small rock enclosure was so awesome it was hard to believe that it was created by nature (or perhaps a higher power if that's your want). The layers of rock provided a perfect backdrop to the picture and would have been the star of the show if it wasn't for the superb pool, shimmering in green in the patch of sunlight we were lucky to get.

A photo by us mere mortals will never do this place justice. B and the big kids are over in the sunlight if you can make them out. The trail ends here for the general public. Something about a 20m drop or something around the bend...

I think I surprised all (including myself) for going for a dip in what could only be described as Antarctic-esque water. It was so unvbelievably cold, I started looking for a door to float around on with Kate Winslet. But it was purely amazing and a mental picture I don't think I'll ever have trouble recalling.

The Hancock Gorge was everything the Butchers had promised and more. It remains to this day the benchmark for bushwalking difficulty on this trip, and any time we hear the kids whinge, we simply refer to the Spider Walk and they realise that keeping two feet on the ground is a luxury!

Evie on the 'easy' part of the walk, the stairs out!

Yep... it was a long day... But I've never been so proud of all the kids, James especially. He just kept on going, and refused to let anything beat him. He and I had a great day at the tail end climbing over rocks.

Meeting McGuirks

And just when we thought our run-ins couldn't get more random, we were setting off for another walk and through the distance we spy a Lotus Trooper. And parked in front was a Landcruiser... surely not, it couldn't be Joe and Teresa? Nah... its a different colour. But it's just dirty and it has a pod. Nah, different colour pod. No it isn't, it's just the sun. As we got closer it became without doubt. Our great psuedo, on-road, replacement grandparents had indeed called in for a few days at Karijini! What are the odds....

So over a couple of evenings, and a dip at Fern Pool, we entertained the Irish Aussies over some drinks, dips and a yarn.

The kids always love catching up with the McGuirks... it often means a bit of luxurious TV time in the posh van!

Circular Pools and Canyon Walk

After spotting the McGuirks we continued on our "big walk" for the day. I say 'big' as it would actually cover some distance as opposed to trying to abseil off a ledge or practice our "spelunking".

After a great family shot at the top of the canyon, upon which the boys and I kept baiting B about how far down it was, we descended the stairs and steps to the floor and headed left up to the Circular Pools. 

Once again, I've no idea how they came up with the name "Circular Pool". Truly brilliant...

It's a long way down...

"You know there is a quick way down... I mean, just over this edge..."

This walk was pretty cool as it was pretty much stepping along the different layers of the ancient sediment that made up the canyon itself, exposed in different spots and at different levels. At the end we were met with an amazing pool, that was fed by water seeping out of the ground, but I suspect during heavy rainfall might be waterfall fed from above.

After a walk in the sun, there was no denying a dip was required. B, as usual jumped in like a lady that was brought up in Wales and that any water above 3 degrees is considered practically balmy. I got changed and walked into the water up to my knees... Holy freezing penguin turds!! How could a pool this big be as cold as the Kermit Pool? Truth be told, it wasn't, but it wasn't much warmer either. There I was hoping to back out, when along came my youngest son, and in front of a couple of young female backpackers from Camberwell, started goading me with chicken noises.... What the hell? Where did he learn that? Still, I now had absolutely no choice and in I dove...

And thanks to the magic of YouTube, you can see it right here!

The walk in took us across beautiful terrain like this.

Sam marvelling in the beauty of Circular Pools

As they say in the classics (foolishly) it wasn't too bad once in, but it was still cold. I swam as fast as I could over to B near where the water was coming in, primarily to keep the blood flowing if nothing else. Sitting there with B though, we marvelled at the towering walls above us and the brilliant clear water and setting we had.

After catching a passing Icebreaker back from Mawson Reasearch Station we continued back along the trail at which we came and then continued on along the Canyon Walk.

It was almost a welcome change to go on a walk that didn't require either a Sherpa or a Wildling guide. The five of us strolled along the floor admiring the different flora of the floor, and at times the fauna scampered around us. It was strange at times to think that such a massive canyon could be carved by such a serene creek.

I know, I know, it's over exposed... But, still, I think it looks kinda cool...

We came across 'Totem City' on our walks. Careful walking through here as to not knock one over. Bad juju to anyone mucking around with totems...

Family selfie!!!

Explaining to Evie that in this instance, green is not good...

Like our other walks, James and I liked to go at our own pace.

The walk took us up to Fortescue Falls and then on to Fern Pool where we met the McGuirks.

The last water crossing, gorge to the right, Fortescue Falls to the left.

A wonderful walk that still required a couple of moments of careful foot placement to cross the water and negotiate the stepping stones, but didn't have to many death-defying moments such as the previous walks.

A nice little time elapsed video from B's point of view. Time elapsed... we weren't going that slow were we?

Remtrek Astronomy

And who would have thought, that out here in the middle of nowhere we'd find ourselves staring through high powered and quite expensive telescopes looking at varioius celestial bodies? And yet Dales Campground had the Remtrek show put on a couple of nights a week, weather permitting.

This show turned out to be quite informative, entertaining and educational. I think the kids really enjoyed it, however it was at the tail end of the day we did the two walks at Handrail and Hancock. As such, they tailed off quite substantially towards the end of the day.

Still, Phil the presenter was great, had a love of Bunnings that rivalled my own and knew how to engaged people of all ages and beliefs. He had more stats and numbers in his head than I could ever build a spreadsheet big enough for and could recall basically a fact or value for any question posed to him.

Anyone interested can find details here:

Remtrek on Trip Advisor

And whilst I thought the shots of the stars, clusters and nebulas were a little 'meh', being able to focus on and clearly see the big storm on Jupiter and the rings of Saturn was quite cool. It also reaffirmed to me that I'm likely to require glasses sooner rather than later.

........

In summary Karijini is just simply one of those places.

One of those places only seeing can ever do justice do.
One of those places people wax lyrically about.
One of those places that has an immense amount of natural beauty that it seems it's "hogging it all".

One of those places you need to put on your bucket list.

Providing you channel your inner spider monkey.