So we rolled out of Broome and headed West, where as mentioned in a blog previously, we bypassed Derby and went inland.
Our destination was going to be Fitzroy Crossing, but we knew that we wouldn't get there in one hit, so an overnighter was required. We chugged along not knowing exactly where, but our faithful "Bible", Wikicamps, gave us a few ideas.
The first was a freecamp spot called Ellendale, just down near some water, out the back of a cattle station of the same name. "Entry hard to find" was mentioned... And it was, as we drove straight past it. Not wanting to turn around on the highway with the van on we decided the more traditional (and sign-posted) rest area 3 or 4km up the road would do.
Pulling in there, we found a plethora of vans placed all over the show. This was a very, very popular spot. The only space we could possibly squeeze (and I mean squeeze) would have been on the road and partially blocking someone in. Nup... I wasn't getting a good vibe from the already parked and tea-sipping nomads who were silently gazing us down with a look that reminded me of the classic League of Gentlemen skit... "You're not local... this is a park for local people" kind of look.
So around we turned, carefully, and headed back to find the elusive entrance to Ellendale. And... we missed it again. This place was harder to get into than the Dungeons of Moria...
Thankfully we did however and were met with a beautiful secluded campground with various spots littered amongst the bush. We took our time and eventually found one 'way out the back' where we could still remain hooked up for an early departure the next morning.
A little bit of reverse parking was required to slot into the spot but all was good.
A lovely quiet campground, we walked around that night admiring some set ups that were quite clearly taking advantage of the spot and perhaps pushing the "short stay" rule. Mozzies and bugs forced us inside later on so no fire and it was an early night after once again finding our 'highway legs'.
Next morning B said: "I think there's a cow out there..."
"And a bear as well, and people with games, and stories to tell" came my reply.
After a shot elbow to the ribs, I looked up and, sure enough, there was, a cow just strolling around...
Ellendale actually became the first place where I'd decided to use the jerry can of fuel I was carrying. Not many stops on the way to Fitzroy and the trip computer said we would be running very close by the time we reached Fitzroy Crossing, around 80km up the road. Sure enough, the 10L I added proved very valuable, and we rolled into town with the fuel light on. Without it, hmm...
We booked into a powered site at Fitzroy Crossing Lodge, where we found a beautiful site, large, grassy and green. Completely different to what we'd had for the past 10 days in Broome. The site, as you can see below, was so large, we didn't actually know where exactly to put the van! But we through it up the back under the trees and agreed that this was a very nice spot that we were more than likely going to spend a little more time than planned at!
Space! Grass! And a paved road for the scooters!! All our wildest dreams come true!
On a walk around the campground I found this view, the mighty Fitzroy River running right past our 'doorstep'. Just don't go strolling at night, the edge wasn't particularly well signed.
Fitzroy Crossing township is not something that requires immediate attention, or actual any attention if I'm brutally honest. The IGA and the servo are all that we required and they did so amicably.
But we did love the park. It provided a good launching spot for a few trips and adventures, as well as some washing and a little bit of down time. Matt Butcher and I managed to again have a crack at solving the canopy tailgate issue on the Colorado, a 15min job which I managed to turn into a 90min one. A sad note however was having my NT Basketball top, something I've cherished and worn for over 20 years stolen off the clothesline. Was quite a sour note to the stay, but I can understand when you've got LeBron's, you've got Koby's, you've got Garnett's, you really need White's to complete the set...
But enough of that, it won't be the lasting memories of the place. These will......
Darngku Gorge (formally Geikie Gorge)
We took the boat trip out at Darngku Gorge, not far from Fitzroy Crossing. And whilst the commantary for the cruise wasn't as entertaining and engaging as that of Yardie Creek (in Cape Range) we did enjoy our hour or so out on the water. It would be amazing to see the Fitzroy River in full flood... it would be an immense amount of water...
...which the booking shed for the tours attested. Click on the photos and you'll see the respective flood levels and their heights labelled. And this is structure is still about 3 or 4 metres above the dry season level. Basically they just take out all the desks and fridge, and let the area flood, before coming in and scraping the mud away and starting again each tourist season. Certainly explained why the dunnies were located on the highest point available!
Getting ready to cruise, cool kids now sit at the front of the boat. And how stylish is Moo? No idea where she gets it from...
...oh hang on. Maybe this chicky-babe?
The gorge is very impressive, flood plains to the right, limestone cliffs to the lefts. The line in the cliffs represents the difference in the normal wet and dry season levels...
As I mentioned, in full flood, it would be biblical proportions of water...
Here was our boat for the day, the Miss Casey Ross. Believe it or not this was the 2nd day in it's operation, and we were apparently the 3 or 4th tour on it. A very nice boat it was, and looking over at the older ones (out of shot) a damn bit more comfortable I think.
Tunnel Creek and Widjana Gorge
We had 'ummed' and 'ahhed' about whether or not to take on the Gibb River Rd on this trip. And whilst the Big Green Lizard wasn't going near the iconic track, we had thought about taking the tents in. However, the comforts of an air conditioned van, showers and tales of woe from up on the GRR had convinced us to give a full blown attack on it a miss. Instead, we decided we'd head up near the middle section and visit two 'must see' items that any GRR trekker would do coming from the other direction. This was Tunnel Creek and Widjana Gorge.
This still involved heading 70km on the Fairfield-Leopold Rd, a pretty rough (in parts) dirt track that had some water and obstacles to dodge on the trip.
Airing down at the start. The trip in wasn't too bad, nothing to punishing I thought.
A few water crossings were a little deeper than expected, and some ruts and corrugations kept me honest behind the wheel...
...that was until we pulled into Tunnel Creek carpark and a mate mentioned the numberplate "needed attention". You would have thought one of the many 4WD's coming the other direction on the drive in would have mentioned something over the radio?? Still, off she came and onto the walk we headed.
Hmm.. so we're heading into a tunnel, and we've decided to all dress in black? Nice one. At least they've got headlamps!
Where's the entrance? I think it's over there somewhere Sam.
Boom! There it is... Here the clan are admiring some Aboriginal Artwork up near the ceiling. Not sure exactly how it got there!!
Most of the photos taken didn't come out, due to them being taken on the phone. I wasn't trusting the SLR to the dust and water... Still, halfway along the tunnel, where natural light broke through, you could take shots like this!
And from the other end, heading back into the tunnel.
Tunnel Creek was pretty damn awesome if you ask me. At points, if it wasn't for the number of people there, it would be absolutely pitch black in there. Like can't see your hand in front of your face dark. Add to that the water you had to walk through, and the (freshwater) crocs that also inhabit the tunnel, it does make you feel like you are a proper adventurer. Easily worth the effort and time to get there, and an experience like none I've had before.
Onwards (after a carpark picnic of jam sangas) we headed anothe 34km or so up the dirt to Windjana Gorge. This spot has full campground facilities and they did look pretty well kitted out when we toured them on the way out. But we were only interested in day tripping so parked in the day-use area and headed in.
The walls of Windjana Gorge tower over you as you walk along the gorge floor. There are a number of walks to do, but we chickened out and only did the shorter gorge walks. With the need to drive home still consider, time was of the essence.
Beautiful, and like so much of the area, dependant on the time of day to define the colours you see. The water itself is teeming with freshwater crocodiles, which the area is almost most famous for. I think Sam gave up counting after a while...
But 'freshies' aren't too much of a worry, and like most of the dangerous things in this country, are more scared of us than of them. However, they do demand respect, which the kids I think give in spades. Still, they were happy to take the shot near this one, probably a few metres away.
One of my favourite Pano's so far. Wouldn't be much in the morning light, but in the arvo light, the wall lights up!
So off we headed back to camp. One thing I learnt on the drive home this time was how much time of day can change how you drive an outback dirt road. The corrugations, which had previously been easy to spot were far harder with the light coming from a different direction. In other parts the road had already changed in surface condition from the days traffic and was not what it was the morning earlier. Either way, lessons learnt (not the hard way thankfully) to treat every dirt road with the utmost care and the least complacency. This was not where you'd want to run into trouble....
So they were the highlights of our stay at Fitzroy Crossing. We loved the park, the area and landscape surrounding it, but you can keep the town. Just leave the petrol station...
On our last night, the Butchers, the McGuirks and the Whites joined forces for a night up at the park's restaurant for a roast buffet. I thought initially the highlight of the night, along with the company, was Matt B's search for more pork crackle, and finding out that he has a fascination for rodeos. But no, the highlight for me was when I was downloading photos off the phone and saw this absolutely ripper shot of Evie and her mate Charlotte, out on a 'girly date night' in their 'pretty dresses'.
Sigh.. I think both Matt and I have trouble on our hands (even more than now) in the years to come. Better pre-order the rocking chair and shotgun.
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