075-079 - Cape Range National Park

The amazing waters of Turquoise Bay

After leaving Exmouth, we headed “around the corner” to Cape Range National Park. It’s a funny thing how you adjust to distances on a trip like this. Our campsite was in North Kurrajong campground, which was around 100km away, but to us, that was literally around the corner. I guess it was a little like when we lived in Alice. As soon as you left town, distances started with 3 figures and went up from there.

But we were going “off-grid” for a week with no nearby shop so we stocked up at the local IGA and shipped out.

And, after a short jaunt, the Ranges over which the sun had been setting for a week, now played horizon for sunrises. As the crow flies I doubt we’d gone too far, but as you can imagine, they ask you to take the long way round. Should point out, that the really long way around would be via the 4WD track from Coral Bay all along the coast, finishing with a pretty interesting crossing of Yardie Creek. I’d love to tackle that drive one day with a mate or two, as I reckon it’d be a real adventure.

Our campground at Cape Range was very nice and looked recently constructed. Clean, flat with nice crushed rocked sites, serviced by regularly cleaned drop toilets. The campground had a lovely host in John who was quiet but always around if required.

Unfortunately the wind kept the awning in most of the time, but it was a great clean site.

Now there is a well balanced fridge.

But the highlight for sure, was the park bench and table that was located at the top of the dunes behind our site. Sure, it was communal, and everyone could access it from paths, but to us, it was like our own perfect dining table.

We were advised when arriving that there was “Happy Hour” at 5pm each evening to watch the sun set down over the Ningaloo Reef… Oh wow… I love a place that doesn’t have a bar, but yet still manages Happy Hour!

I think that just about became my favourite time over the week there, walking up with a beer or two and chatting to the other campers around us to hear their stories and tales, and tell our own. Whilst there was only 10 sites in our campground, there was always a few new faces here or there. And each night the sunset gave a unique and different show. From cloudless skies, to overcast, to drizzle and everything in between, no evening was the same.

Here are some various Happy Hour snaps...

Looking back up from the rocks at people gathering...

The kids often flitted between the table if there was biscuits and dip, to down on to the beach. Sam decided that he wanted to fish one afternoon. A perfect world.

And this is what we came for... This was night one, and if I'm honest, was the pick of the lot. The sun simply melted behind the horizon.

It just doesn't get old...

One of the days was raining and overcast, and ironically, we had the biggest turn out. I think it was a case of "one in, all in".

Our site relevant to Happy Hour. Commuting was simply painful.

Some prefer cloudless skies, but clouds bring different patterns, hues and shadows.

There are simple reasons why the TV hardly gets a run in our life at the moment.

I’m so glad we ‘chose’ this site (it was just about the only one available) as it was nigh on perfect National Park camping. We toured the other campgrounds whilst there, and I think we had the pick. Sure our beach might not have been as fruitful fishing as hoped, but no one ever complained and there was always something to do or a place to explore.

Our time at Cape Range varied between fishing, snorkelling, fishing whilst others snorkelled or snorkelled whilst others fished. We also threw in a bushwalk in there for good measure along with a boat cruise up Yardie Creek.

The bush walk was quite interesting for one particular reason that we were being taunted by rain the whole time. The clouds were threatening all day and we got intermittent showers but somehow managed to time our walk in the middle of the day to perfection. The walk took us down the river bed of Mandu Mandu Gorge before taking a hard left, followed by a hard steep ascent up the canyon face and a walk back along the ridge line. There was no doubt that it was pretty challenging, even for our experienced mountain goats. I spent the whole time hoping that the wound on my foot, still recovering, would not split itself open. That and hoping the heavens were kind to us and not try and drown us atop the range. Thankfully both hopes were met and we all descended unscathed.

Mandu Mandu Gorge from the river bed.

James about to start the climb out of the gorge. As you can see, he's ready to roll.

Not our standard shot. I mean, those things, I think they're clouds aren't they?

Us nervously keeping the pace up for fear of the Apocalypse.

The impressive Mandu Mandu Gorge. I actually think the dark clouds make this picture even more spectacular than just the river bed.

The Yardie Creek boat cruise was something that proved to be more enjoyable than I had otherwise expected. Our guide was brilliant, once again walking that fine line between informative guide and entertaining comedian. He was quite the skilled skipper as well, navigating the rocks and shallows quite well. My particular favourite part of the walk was when he yelled at some bushwalkers atop the ridge who were clearly ignoring the signs to stay away from the ridge.

“Hey mate, it’s not worth it! Get back from the edge! Don’t jump! Freo will eventually win a flag!”

It was a competition between the river water and the sky as to who could put on the best display of blue on this day.

Family shot on the boat. If you look closely you can see Matt Butcher doing an excellent photo bomb. The Butchers joined us for a day of swimming and touring.

Yardie Creek near where the freshwater ends and the saltwater starts

A beautiful piece of landscape.

The Cape Range was rugged and beautiful and not like an area I’ve seen before. The ranges striking, brown and red, tumbling down on the flats before meeting the amazing waters of the Coral Coast. It would be a terrible place to be colour blind.

On our last night we were actually joined in the neighbouring site by Seth and Daphne from B’s whale shark swimming tour.

Eventually though, we had to watch our final sunset and happy hour over our awesome campsite and we had to move on. The van once again held up brilliantly to a week of free camping and we’ve now got our water rationing down to a reasonably fine art. Feet washing is a must, but showers are somewhat ‘negotiable’.

A beautiful spot. A wonderful spot. A spot to come back to.

Here's a couple more random beautiful shots from our time there...

The amazing waters of Turquoise Bay, teeming with fish.

A school of Darts... Just how many are there? Whish are fish and which are shadows?

Sam snorkelling up...

Yes, even yours truly gave it a bash. It's a pretty cool thing to do. Until you swallow half the ocean and snort it back into your goggles.

 Turquoise Bay. Yep. It's that amazing. No filter required.

Sitting atop the point in the wind and drizzle looking for the ULF radio station off in the distance.

More 'Lighthouse Maths Lessons'

With the rain came the Roos. This was the turn off into our camp ground. The roos, attracted by the water pooling on the road were everywhere. Not a place to come flying through at high speed.

The definition of optimism. Or futility. One or the other. Or both.

A random fish...

Yep.. if you look closely, that's a passing dolphin.

The Oyster Stack snorkelling spot. Not for the first timers (like the young guy I had to pull out of the water before he got smashed on the rocks)

Luckily Sam and B aren't first timers now!!

Rock pool hunting. One of our favourite pastimes. Like Nature's Lucky Dip.

Evie' relocating a bunch of small crabs and molluscs off the rocks into a rock pool to create a 'farm'. 

James and I sneaking off to Sandy Point for a quick fish whilst the others did some school work one day. It's a hard life sometimes.

The piece of driftwood B thought looked like an animal. Here she is patting it's nose....

I was more fascinated by the rocks that had embedded themselves in the driftwood. Or was that the other way around??