004 - Whyalla

OK… finding our groove now.

After a few days and nights of pretty rubbish weather, not diabolical like the crap battering Queensland at the moment, but really just cold and windy shite, we were met with glass-like water and a still breathless morning.

A view from the higher point in the park. If you look closely, you'll see the Big Green Lizard right at the end of this line. Worse places to wake up...

Today’s plan was set out in two halves. Myself with the Big Kids and then an afternoon of “jobs”.

One of the few excursions we’d lined up prior to leaving was a tour of the steel works in Whyalla, upon which pretty much the entire town’s economy is built on. In fact, as I learnt today, it uses more power than pretty much any other user in the state of SA. Maybe we can blame the crap we had to endure on the way back from Flinders last year on them?

Unfortunately tours of the steelworks are limited to 7yrs and over which meant our #3 simply couldn’t come along, no matter how much he said he’d pretend to be 7. So B fell on the sword and I took Sam and Evie on a ‘school excursion’ to the plant.

It turned out to be essentially a bus tour for 2hrs in which we weren’t allowed off the bus during that time. That in itself is why sub 7yr olds weren’t allowed… seatbelts without boosters. Still, I doubt the tour would hold much for them other than a frequent sighting of heavy machinery. And being housebound, I didn’t get to verify the realism of the final battle scene of Terminator 2, which I’ve always been a little dubious about. I mean really… surely that area is too hot for a opionistic and smarmy teenage John Connor to be running around in?

Back to the tour…

I’ll let the pics tell most of the tale but I found it very informative. The lady driving the Coaster Bus knew more about iron ore, coal, coke, process engineering, economics and commerce than any Uni lecturer I ever knew and was very good value. Even diplomatic fending off a Grey Nomad’s question as to why we were “shipping the good stuff off to China”. Quickly responded with “take that up with the board of the company sir”. I could read between the lines of her tone of voice, and yet she said nothing to contravene company policy. Very shrewd and well played.

This shot just reaffirmed to me why I was no good at Process Eng at Uni. Pipes just going everywhere, turrets burning off "something" and really some black magic making things happen.

 I really didn't hear too much from Sam the whole trip. We've given the big kids our two old iPhones as cameras and he didn't stop snapping and looking around. Based on his journal, I think he loved it.

"Quick Dad... there's a heap of smoke!".. "It's steam Evie"... The result of dumping around 35,000L of water (a miniscule 35kL in my line of work) on a hot truck of 18hr baked coal...

..which can be seen here being dumped into the "hotbox" before taking the worlds biggest shower. It was hot. Real hot.

It was good to see these reed beds being used to filter the water used to cool the coke (18hr baked coal), taking out contaminants and recycling 65% of the water used in the process. I reckon it'd put a smile on a few people at work to see this kind of process being used.

For those of you wondering where the scrap metal from the tip or the local 'scrappie' ends up, it's here. It plays a vital part of the steel production process, reducing the need for raw materials and making each bit of natural resource go that much further.

The lady boasted about how long this train was (55 trucks I counted) and how long we'd have to wait for it to pass. She'd obviously never parked at Larapinta Dve in Alice Springs before when the trains come in... I mean, she didn't even turn off the engine.

A shot from Hummock Hill showing the extent of the 1000+ha site. An undertaking of epic proportions.

On Hummock Hill they had those touristy binocular things. Sam and I tried to use my phone to try and take a pic of the "Cape Ships" where the ore was loaded onto offshore (due to their size). Not sure it worked out, but we had fun trying to take the shot.

And we returned to find James tearing around on this bad boy. He was loving it and I could almost read "screw the steelworks" in his smile.

In summary, a great tour and recommended. A great insight into the industry that is critical to “life as we know it”. More steel and metal than I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s easy to see how 2500+ people are employed here. I particularly enjoyed spending the time in the bus next to Evie (Sam was more than happy looking after himself, admiring the heavy machinery and metalwork). Moo at one stage turned and said how she “wanted to be a steel worker”. I took particular inspiration from this as I’ve always told Evie she could be whatever she wanted. I hadn’t banked on that being a worker at OneSteel pouring buckets of molten slag, but if it is, then awesome. Fine by me. Talking to the (elderly) lady driving the bus with Evie, she affirmed this position and told Moo that she’d be a great addition to the steel works. It was a nice little moment.

  

Coming back it was homework hour and I had set myself to try and solve an issue with a leak in the plumbing to the dunny. Surely an area of my expertise one would say? Nup… no matter what I tried, couldn’t resolve it. So we’ve found a work around until we hopefully can get someone who knows a bit more than I on these matters in Port Lincoln later in the week. Sam was great at “School in the Sun” whilst Evie was… umm… not so much. This year of homeschooling will bring it’s challenges I feel.

Sunnies and hats in the classroom?? Very proud of Sam's commitment early on in this undertaking.

Following this, we decided to try out hand at “raking for crabs”. I had no idea (and some would argue I still don’t) what the hell this was about, but sure enough… off we went. Basically, you take a rake (which we borrowed from the front office), head off onto the flats at low tide and scratch around until you find some crabs. And I tell you… it’s pretty cool fun. Like a giant treasure hunt for crustaceans. And B and I gauge the success of any venture on the amount of whinging. Given there was none, this was a huge success. So much so, after a few jobs tomorrow, I might head back out there to try and find some more.

Taken from the shore... believe it or not, B, Sam and James are out there...

A little closer up. Great fun

I didn't think he'd hold one, but he did. James and the 'Giant' crab.

Unsurprisingly, Evie was more than brave. Quitely, I think the crab was bricking it. As it should. It went in the pot with the other 'size' crustaceans.

I’m not sure if it’s a compliment to describe your wife as “The Crab Whisperer” but B definitely handy with the rake and finding them. The kids loved it, and we danced around for an hour or so on the flat just enjoying the sun and the adventure.

My fun was cut short when one of the rakes decided to separate at the handle and separate some of my thumb. I’m glad it wasn’t one of the kids when it happened, but we were on the way back in anyhow, so Moo and I headed in a little quicker than the other 3.

On that note, I think it’s going to be important over the next year or so to ensure we still find one-on-one time. Evie and I had a great chat and catch up whilst we trekked in, and I’m looking forward to many more of these small moments that I would definitely otherwise miss driving a desk.

B and the boys returned with our “bounty” of 5 crabs which in comparison to the Nomads near us who had 20 odd in there pot might have something to say about our 3 little scouts than anything else. Still, I reckon we had more fun.

B cooked them up and then Evie and her smashed the shells to pieces trying to get the crab meat. I can now use the term “basket full of smashed crabs” with far more realism now.

As we sat in the camp kitchen with Matt (remember him, the disgustingly good looking other Matt travelling with his family), his family and a few nomads, we swapped tales and tips on where to go in the future. I must admit, I can get used to this kind of lifestyle. The kids and adults alike making friends as people flow in and out of your life. I hope one of the big lessons our kids learn out of this trip is the ability to meet, learn and interact with new people, accepting their differences and opinions.

But a great day. A real adventure day. Here’s to hoping that there are heaps more of them.

003 - Whyalla

Day 3 already?!? It feels like we’ve just left…

We’ve decided to shack up here in Whyalla for a few days and catch our breath which I think all and sundry appreciate. The weather as well is pretty ordinary so it’s nice to be able stay put and not trying to fight the elements to get somewhere.

Today was what I call the first day of our Adventure. Up to this point it was about getting here, and now focussing on what to do from here on. With no set time frames or plans it’s pretty nice living day to day and with only a few outlines of what to do.

For example, today we knew we’d tick off our first museum and the “big kids” and I are due to tour around the steel works tomorrow morning. From there… who knows. The place where we are staying are running a discounted rate for 4 nights, with the drawcard of roast rolls and live music on Saturday night… I’m not sure I have the will power to resist that kind of dangling carrot.

And I still need to fit a few things to the truck and van which I didn’t get the chance to do before leaving so we might just take up the chance to tie up a few loose ends.

But enough rambling… what did today bring?

Firstly, I’ve come up with a new “ritual” where we mark up the HEMA map with where we’ve been. We stood around and with the highlighter recounted the trip from the past two days and etched it into paper forever. I know it can be done online (and probably will be), but perhaps I’m an old romantic and love paper maps. And I love daydreaming in our book, scanning roads less travelled and strangely named towns like “Worlds End”, “Belvedere” and “Chinkapook”.

Want to make sure you get the right road... I don't think White Out would work too well here...

Not wanting to muck around we dabbled with schooling for the first time. I don’t think it was a deliberate decision, but the kids wanted something to do and out came the exercise books. I took the chance to do the brekkie dishes with James and then search the campground for as many things starting with the letter ‘B’.

Whilst on our journey I met another gentleman who was travelling around Australia as well. With 3 kids. In a caravan. Towing with a Colorado. And his name was Matt. And he was also a charming and disgustingly good looking as well, so really it was like shining a mirror into my own life….

By the time we got back after an hour or so, I found Sam and Evie squirrelling away at books and B sitting there comfortable and happy as if this could just about be the most perfect classroom she’s ever taught in.

No rest for the wicked. Need to make sure we don't let Mrs Underwood and Mr Oliver down...

After school, it was into the car and off to the Whyalla Maritime Museum for a visit and a tour of the HMAS Whyalla. Sam and I have discussed and have set a “100 Museum Challenge” whilst we are away. And this was #1…

Was a fantastic joint, and far more involved than I was giving it credit for. Proudly displaying models and memorabilia of yesteryear and Whyalla’s rich ship building and maritime involvement. 

A very RSL feel to the entrance, understated and unassuming. 

James fascinated, as was I, with the model ships. This was the largest but there certainly were others...

...like these ones!

Obviously sharks are prevalent to the area. Reasonable set of jaws these ones...

James learning what a dolphin skeleton looks like.

Interestingly (and surprisingly) it had quite an elaborate and extensive model train installation which also showcased life around the region, in particular the work involved in getting ore from inland to the coast. I think we spent the most time watching these little trains trundle around and had it not been for the tour of the HMAS Whyalla, we might still be there, trying to pry the boys off the glass.

Lots of points!!

One half of the models

From there we were taken on a trip around the HMAS Whyalla, which stands proudly over the Whyalla Tourist Centre. Built in Whyalla in 1941, she was a Corvette class ship sent off to war as a mine sweeper before returning to Melbourne, being renamed “The Rip” and helping blast the shipping channel in the mouth of Port Phillip Bay. Eventually she was retired, bought by the town of Whyalla for the princely sum of $5000 and returned home, renamed back to the original name, and then with immense amounts of horsepower, dragged onto land and mounted 2m off the ground.

As you can imagine she stands out when driving by on the main drag

A colourful history...

Perhaps a better idea of the size of the ship, and perhaps the effort required to get her there...

It's an impressive ship in it’s own right, and after visiting the HMS Belfast in London, these kind of ships always intrigued me. The conditions the men (and sometimes women) who served on this ship were borderline abuse, unless of course you were an officer. But they were committed to a cause, believed in something and due to their efforts, allow me and my family the opportunity to do what we are doing right now. I recognise and appreciate their efforts.

  

It was funny watching the kids go around the ship as if it was a giant playground, whilst I had to clumsily stumble around banging my head-on doorways and cautiously descending stairs. I was not built for the sea I don’t think…

Still, it was a good tour, albeit with a lady who was somewhat going through the motions. At one point, she described the gun at the front of the boat with the exact description as the gun at the back. This is despite I’m sure one being an anti-aircraft gun (~40mm machine gun) and the other firing mortar shells 2.5 miles off into the distance… Still it was crappy weather on a random Thursday for her and I’m sure she’d rather have been in the warm office playing solitaire on her PC.

Captain Moo

"If I could turn back time...."

 "...if I could find a way"

Oh how the other half lived. This was the officers mess. The galley was not as extravagent.

The kids loved the fact they could sound the horn of the ship and blast cars off the road. Apparently it's unpopular with local golfers. Stiff I say...

Moo at the front of the ship. The front gun could hit the hill just over her right shoulder in it's day. Cool.

 Perks of life on the road and midweek visits. Theatre to ourselves!

Lastly, we caught a movie on how the ship was brought ashore (probably should have watched it prior) before jumping in the car and heading back to the park. Just some routine shopping, some nice spaghetti and meatballs for tea and a lazy stroll around the park before retiring for the evening listening to the wind once again batter us from across the Spencer Gulf.

So off to learn about steel tomorrow, before getting around to some “work” as we get used to our new lifestyle.

I think we are all happy to still stay out of the car for a while…  

002 - Lascelles to Whyalla

“Are we near Ballarat now?”

As we rounded Port Augusta, some 26hrs after we passed Ballarat, James proceeded to make B and I just crack up with laughter. This was after he tried to guess “Saturn” in eye-spy. I queried him on that…

“Where did you get Saturn from James?”

“It’s from Space”

Touche’ Bob… Touche.

With material like this, the 780 odd kilometres we did today seemed so much easier and manageable. Whilst we won’t pull too many days like today, it’s nice to know that we can if the need arises.

To be fair it was a bit of a slog for the car and myself from Lascelles to Whyalla today. We wanted to get here, but around lunch time we weren’t sure. But the kids (along with the first ever use of a tablet with a movie) were awesome and we could keep trucking along.

This is essentially the extent of Lascelles in a photo, and I reckon it epitomises most of the small country towns in these parts. A pub adjacent to the industry that built the town.

Howling side and head winds, as well as steady climb made the acceptable fuel consumption of yesterday a complete thing of the past. I think the middle stint average 24L/100km... that’s an unimpressive 11.7 miles to the gallon for our UK readers. But we aren’t travelling light or small. I think the van weighs in just short of 2.8t and the car is around the 3t mark. So I’m quite proud of the Rock Truck today. Probably it’s hardest day of work yet, and I can almost hear it outside the van now snoring, dreaming of downhill tailwind runs.

But despite the conditions the day was without hassle all things considered.

Leaving Lascelles around 8am, we were on our way. A fuel stop at Ouyen, and off we went to Red Cliffs to say hi to Big Lizzie before heading due West. A run across the Mallee Badlands saw us relate to the view that met Armstrong and Aldrin when they first left the lunar module. Even Evie I think was struggle to find redeeming features.

Still our invented game of Car Cricket kept everyone engages, happy and sub-conciously ticking off maths homework as we went. Throw in a word game (most words found in “remarkable”) and I reckon Sam and Evie have English covered too.

Stopping at the strict border checkpoint where all kinds of fruit were confiscated, to the point where the both the fridge in the car and the van were searched. Man, Donald Trump wishes he could get these guys, could then save money on “The Wall”.

Through Renmark with a quick grocery and fuel stop, we headed for Monash Adventure Playground. To my brothers, this place needs no introduction and brings back many happy childhood memories playing on equipment that would in today’s age threaten multiple lawsuits and liability cases. Unfortunately today’s version has been dumbed down a little, with little chance of massive trauma or 3^rd degree burns from mallee roasted metal, but it was still cool. The maze the highlight for mine. We called in here last year on the way home from Flinders only to find it shut. Promising the kids we’d return soon, I kept that promise and we stayed here for an hour or so to stretch legs.

The two towers were cool, but the lack of actual lethal falls, tetanus free metal sheeting and easy access might have reduced the attraction. Still, kids these days will never understand will they?

Must admit, the maze was awesome. And this pic only shows half of it.

The "flying fox" was more like the "slowly sliding domesticated dog". But I think Sam still enjoyed it.

Whilst they were running around, I was tweaking our IT solutions to allow movies onto the tablet and B rustled up some rolls for lunch. There are certainly perks with bringing the entire house with you everywhere you go!

Back on the road, and we started the big slog across to Burra and through to Port Augusta before turning for Whyalla where we now find ourselves.

At times I forgot to look in the mirrors, such was the lack of signs of life our here. So imagine my surprise when this guy, out of nowhere came flying past us. I think our fuel consumption was similar.

As I type, the wind has just died down, and the chatting from the other side of the curtain (in the “bedroom”) has stopped. Moo helped me set up with gusto which was lovely, despite it taking 500% longer. If I can teach her most parts, I’ll get to the cold beers and camping chair sooner, so it’s an investment in time. Hopefully Future Matt is grateful. In all honesty though, it’s nice to have her keen and asking questions and getting involved.

So with that lazy 1000 odd kilometres out of the way and our goal to reach Whyalla in one stop achieved, we can start the Adventure proper tomorrow. A promise of museums and tours, a bit of a walk to stretch the legs and a stocktake to see exactly what we forgot, and we’re away.

001 - BM to Lascelles

And so it begins…. But hey… what’s the rush?

At approximately 2.05pm and 35 seconds, we were waved off from the house, by the random lady who had come to clean the carpets, her elderly mother and a young 2yr old who had a fondness for Evie…

The last family portrait on the steps of 187 Halletts Way. I've never lived any house in my life longer, so quite the affinity to it. And to this point, the only home the kids remember. It will be missed.

About to head off... the fact they were so excited made me feel better that we'd made the right decision. Now how long do the smiles last for.

About to roll.....

Where are we here? About 250m from home...

  

So we were a little later than expected, say… 25hrs or so, but really in the scheme of things what does that matter?

But we managed to get out the door and on the road in what can only be described as picture perfect conditions. Unlike the crappy weather that would have greeted us on the road had we left yesterday, it was smooth sailing, very little wind and bright sunshine the whole afternoon.

A quick lesson in tyre pressures for Evie at 7-11, followed by a top of fuel at Ballan and we were on our way.

One of many many fuel stops I'm sure... Hope they are all as easy as this to park...

It was quite surreal… just heading off. Where were we going this afternoon? We hadn’t actually decided. It really depended on time of day, setting of the sun and above all, the mood and behaviour of the trio in the back seat, around which the entire universe will revolve for the next 9 months I feel…

In the end, after a nice lazy trundle down the highway, around Ballarat and up through Avoca and St. Arnaud, we hit the expansive plains of the Mallee. Towns like Woomelang and Birchip brought back memories of travelling from Swan ‘ill and Mildura down to see the relo’s in Bendigo and Ballarat. And I tell you… the landscape hasn’t changed much… and is still pretty freakin’ boring.

Still we were on our way and got a great chuckle passing every single rest point and picnic spot going “you know… we could just pull up there and stay the night.”

 Believe it or not, this is a pretty common site in our car on travels... Nose in books and generally letting the world go by. Bob's new seat strategically being used as a "Peace Wall"

In the end, Wikicamps (our soon to become “Bible”) brought us to Lascelles, a small blip on the map, around 80km south of Ouyen (prounouced Oh-yen for the Northern Hemisphere friends). A small little patch of grass next to the pub with power and water has cost us $11 for the night and allowed us a little bit of comfort on our first night. No point in roughing it too much I say….

A reasonable meal in the pub served by a Canute who couldn’t tell me if there was anywhere to get fuel in town was had. Jukebox which ate $2 and gave up no music at all (I blame Napster) was smoothed over by the owner who lent the kids some books to read in bed before returning tomorrow. I love a small town ethos.

Just paying for the site... in the pub.

It was crowded, and tough securing a site on our first night...

Not a bad little playground...

And that brings me to now.

The kids are snoring (or is that the local wildlife fornicating next to the van?) B’s enjoying a peaceful jigsaw on the table and I’m here regaling tales of, well… day one I suppose.

A couple of times today it hit me, we’re actually doing this. And I think it will sink in more as time goes on as it kind of feels like a “holiday” rather than an “adventure” which is what it is. I’m sure it will take some time to find a groove and get used to being on top of each other and tripping over each others shoes and jumpers… and clothes… and books… and hair ties… and drink bottles… and soft toys… sigh…. Patience Matt.

Tomorrow we’re heading for another childhood memory hotspot up near Renmark before the long haul over to Whyalla hopefully. Will see how we get on, but if we don’t get there…

…hey… what’s the rush?

Reflection on the Eve of the Event.

Just set the out of office message at work….

That’s something I’ve never done before to that magnitude, and if I’m brutally honest, unlikely to do again in the near future!

Finishing up on Friday was quite the surreal experience. On one hand it was very exciting and there were well wishes and messages of support and on the other hand a sense of apprehension. There’s quite a lot of change going on in my work place, and it’s always a matter of opinion on whether or not that’s a good or a bad thing.

But change is here, and for me, I’m going to focus on the positive aspects of it.

As I sit here camping in my lounge room (as all the furniture is in storage), it’s safe to say, change is upon us.

Whilst we were hoping to get away tomorrow, with a grand plan of a fanfare departure picking the kids up from school, unfortunately the pure logistics of change was a bridge too far.

We decided to spend Saturday down at the Little Athletics Championship day, which on recollection was the reason we chose this weekend as departure week anyhow. Seeing the kids excel in their sports of choice was brilliant, and well worth the sacrifice of packing more boxes.

Evie getting gold in 60m, to go with a silver in high jump... Neither events I would have thought my baby giraffe would have excelled at. Brilliant stuff. 

Sam collecting gold in the Turbo Javelin, to go with a second in the 400m and bronze in the 60m hurdles. Oh, and just a lazy 23 PBs set over the season... Just wait until he grows!

So rather than try and rush, force the issue and stick to the “plan”, we’re already adjusting to the lifestyle and making sure that we are comfortable and prepared for the next leg.

The kids were disappointed as they were hoping to leave tomorrow but alas, they’ll have one more day to hang out with their mates at school. I reckon by 10am on Tuesday they’ll be over it.

But it gives me time to reflect at least….

One of the interesting things people, and with absolute best intentions, have said to us along the way is how “lucky” we are. It’s something that is of debate in the house at the moment and trying to teach the kids about the difference between “lucky” and “deserved” or even “earnt”. We came to the definition that “lucky” is when something good happens to you which you either weren’t expecting or had very little control over. Deserved was when you worked hard or dedicated time to something and have it eventuate.

So relating it back to the trip, we asked the kids if they were lucky to be going on the trip. And they all agreed they were. And I believe they are correct. Kids are, at the stage of their lives ours are, generally lucky or unlucky as most things are out of their control. Their lifestyle, the clothes, their food, their education, the examples they’re set, morals they are taught… all largely out of their control. So yep, the trip, a decision by B and I, was out of their control, and I’d certainly agree that they are lucky to be going on it.

But what about B and I….

5 years ago (give or take a bit here or there) we decided that we’d like to travel around Australia. Having travelled prior to kids, and to an extent with them afterwards, we knew it was something we wanted to continue. So we forecast into the future, looking at ages of kids, school years and potential resources. And 2017 or 2018 came up as a window. And the snowball started rolling… the ideas, the spit balling, the afternoon dreaming.

Around 3 years ago, when the hard decisions needed to be made. Disillusioned with a particular work situation, B and I were trying to work out how the financial situations of the trip could eventuate under a huge amount of scenarios. In the end, a commitment to the trip was made, and a sacrifice of dare I say sanity, time, potential career development was made.

Fast forward on, the work situation improved, a few financial injections were provided and the stars aligned on some minor bits and pieces. All were, for all intents and purposes, lucky.

But at the heart of this, this trip, this adventure, isn’t luck. It’s a culmination of many decisions, many sacrifices, a lot of dedication and commitment to something we wanted to do not only for ourselves but our children. Luck for me has played a part in shaping how the trip was undertaken (i.e. caravan vs camper, Colorado vs Pajero, etc.) but it has very little to do with the trip actually happening. I think I’d be just as happy undertaking the trip in a camper with a couple of swags, as I am with the Big Green Lizard. But I’m happy creature comforts can be afforded.

And whilst I’ll never be offended or off put by someone calling us lucky and I know the sentiment is genuine (I hope!). But I know deep down, that B and I have made this happen, not luck.

So, for those we hope to inspire and entertain on this trip and to those who have said “I wish we could do something like that” we simply say… make the call. Make the choice. Make the decision. It might not be a trip like this or on this scale… it might be to learn an instrument… do some renovations… change your job… lose weight or get healthier…

…but life waits for no one. No one has yet to cheat death (depending on your interpretation of some religions) and rarely does change work in your favour without your influence. If it does, it’s just luck…

To quote my favourite movie of all time: